Misurazione dei consumi
La iOn è dotata di una strumentazione molto basilare: un indicatore di carica diviso in 16 tacche, un amperometro che indica il consumo momentaneo, e un indicatore chilometrico di autonomia stimata residua.Si può usare questo amperometro, mostrato qui sotto, per avere un’idea dei consumi nelle varie condizioni. Per misurazioni più precise occorre dotarsi di uno strumento da collegare alla porta OBD.
Ho verificato che questo amperometro misura soltanto la corrente assorbita dal motore, tralasciando quella assorbita dagli accessori (ho provato ad accendere il riscaldamento al massimo, il riscaldatore del sedile del conducente e poi l’aria condizionata al massimo, ma l’indicatore non si è mosso).
Secondo questa discussione sul forum Myimiev:
- Quando l’indicatore è nella zona nera fra quella blu e quella verde, l’auto (o perlomeno il motore) sta consumando 0,0 A.
- La prima tacca (nella zona Eco, a ore 12) corrisponde a 45 A.
- La seconda tacca corrisponde a 95 A.
- La terza e ultima tacca corrisponde a 154 A e alla potenza massima del motore (47 kW).
- La tacca nella zona blu (rigenerazione) arriva a fondo scala a circa 50 A, ma in realtà il valore può aumentare fino a 104 A (test svolto rilasciando l’acceleratore in modalità B a 105 km/h, senza premere il pedale del freno).
Consumi di base
Auto ferma.Con aria condizionata accesa a temperatura media, ventola al massimo, luci principali accese: 1,6 kW.
Come sopra, ma con A/C spenta: 0.7 kW.
Come sopra, ma con anche ventola spenta: 0.6 kW.
Come sopra, ma con anche luci principali spente; 0.4 kW.
A small analysis using pf78 http://www.vehiculeselectriques.fr/membre11603.html canyon of ...
Key second step (without the "contact"), all off: 240W
engine running (so to speak): 430W (includes daytime running lights)
At the base value of 430W should be added if they are enabled consumers to:
headlights: 220W (included taillights)
beam: 175W (plus beam)
AB lights AV + AR: 125W
Stop lights: 30W
warning lights: 140W (modulated at 50%)
radio: 0 to 20W about
rear window defroster: 170W
ventilation: 180W or 270W 0 to mode "push max"
vacuum pump: 70W
AC: about 800W (works sometimes, not always, when following or strange logic outside temperature)
0 to 6kW heating about
wiper, windshield washer, power steering operation untested because rare (not so rare front windshield of course)
the heater and aircon energy consumption can easily exceed the energy required to propel the car!
Alimentazione separata degli accessori
Da ferma, ELSA consuma circa 0,4 kW anche quando aria condizionata e riscaldamento sono spenti. Il consumo è prodotto dai fanali, dalla pompa del vuoto per i freni e dalla ventilazione per il controllo della temperatura della batteria.Questo significa che se questi sistemi fossero affidati a una batteria separata, invece di attingere energia dalla batteria di trazione, risparmierei 0,4 kWh per ogni ora di viaggio. Considerato che ELSA fa circa 5 km con un kWh, posso stimare che l’eliminazione del carico degli accessori mi darebbe 2 km di autonomia in più. Non è molto, ma tutto fa brodo.
Lampade
Would lamp change improve range? Also, ECO mode improves range?http://mondoelettrico.blogspot.ch/2009/12/mitsubishi-i-miev-dettagli-tecnici-e.html
https://forums.automobile-propre.com/topic/gain-dautonomie-passer-aux-leds-17844/ (....
Prenez le temps que la voiture est en marche en moyenne pour faire 100km.
Prenez l'économie de puissance faite (cumulée) avec tous ces remplacements d'ampoules.
Voyez l'énergie économisée, en kWh, sur cette durée.
Mettez la en % de la consommation globale de la voiture, vous allez rire.
Mettez le en Euros économisés au 100km. Vous allez rire encore plus fort. Oui, même avec le rendement de charge.
Mettez cette énergie économisée en km (ou devrais-je dire mètres) d'autonomie gagnée.
Calculez le ROI pour que l'économie paye pour les ampoules achetées. Ca va vous faire tout drôle.
Spoiler : la consommation des ampoules à l'échelle d'un VE est né-gli-gea-ble.
)
Prenez l'économie de puissance faite (cumulée) avec tous ces remplacements d'ampoules.
Voyez l'énergie économisée, en kWh, sur cette durée.
Mettez la en % de la consommation globale de la voiture, vous allez rire.
Mettez le en Euros économisés au 100km. Vous allez rire encore plus fort. Oui, même avec le rendement de charge.
Mettez cette énergie économisée en km (ou devrais-je dire mètres) d'autonomie gagnée.
Calculez le ROI pour que l'économie paye pour les ampoules achetées. Ca va vous faire tout drôle.
Spoiler : la consommation des ampoules à l'échelle d'un VE est né-gli-gea-ble.
)
The headlights (and all other 12 volt loads) are directly powered by the DC to DC converter, so every watt of 12 volt load is one more watt drawn directly from the traction battery, and is one less watt you have to move the car (http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1834&start=10)
Video: replacing a MIEV headlight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2bQAOLi2-Q
How to replace headlight bulbs: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4248 Tools Required
- philips head screwdriver flat head screwdriver 10mm socket and wrench. optional: pop rivet removal tool
Instructions
- Each headlamp assembly is held in by three 10mm/philips head bolts. Remove the small plastic cover at the base of the windshield to expose the top bolt. This Bolt only needs to be loosened, however it might be easier to just remove it completely. Your philips head screwdriver will need to have a normal/small shaft, a bit driver might be too big. The second Bolt is under the hood on the top radiator support. The last one is the trickiest, you need to remove the the plastic pop rivet in the wheel well where the fender meets the front bumper, then pop the front bumper clips out by pulling up and away from the car. Remove the one wiring harness connector and wiggle the entire headlamp assembly forward and up. The top of the assembly has a small clip that might make it a little difficult to remove. You may also need to remove the plastic pop rivets on the top of the bumper and peel the bumper back slightly to remove the headlamp assembly. Unscrew the cap for the projector to access the low beam bulb. Might be a good idea to replace the high beams while you're in there. Also, definitely test the lights before putting everything back together. Installation is reverse of removal, I broke several of the pop rivets in the process but I was able to find a variety pack of generic ones for cheap online.
I used Diode Dynamics SL1 LED bulbs, which work very well with the I-MiEV projector housing and there is a sharp cutoff so as not to blind other drivers. This is not a promotion for this particular brand, but I found it was difficult to find specific information about what aftermarket solutions work well with the I-MiEV. I also don't want to have to replace these again any time soon, so hopefully they will last a little longer than the halogens.
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Hi Jenn, nice to hear from you again. Did a tiny bit of searching, and the Low Beam bulb is identified as H11 whereas the High Beam bulb is 9005.
Since you always drive with your low beams on, it actually might be worthwhile to put in LED bulbs from a longevity standpoint, although they seem a bit pricy. The H11 halogen bulb is 55W which means it draws around 4A. The Diode Dynamics H11 SL1 LED bulb draws about 1.6A, but touts itself as being superior in many respects.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/low-beam-led-headlight-for-2012-2018-mitsubishi-i.html
Scanning through Amazon I see that there are many less-expensive LED alternatives. At 1/2-hour minimum replacement time I'd be inclined to just stick in another halogen bulb to match the original and be done with it as saving a total of about 30W over the course of an hour is 0.030kWh compared to our nominal battery capacity of 16kWh is rather insignificant.
Do let us know what you end up doing and how difficult the installation turned out to be.
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After a few months, I'm glad I did go with LED bulbs, but if you were happy with the amount of light you had before with the OEM bulbs, I don't think there's a good reason to make the switch because they are a lot more expensive. Also as Joe mentioned, the energy savings is negligible.
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HEADLIGHTS or RUNNING LIGHTS?
https://www.ledperf.co.uk/leds-and-xenon-hid-conversion-kits-for-mitsubishi-imiev-=c=-985_384_2362.html
Headlights: 96 euro (for a pair) https://www.ledperf.co.uk/high-power-led-bulbs-for-mitsubishi-imiev-headlights-p-28690.html But how much power do they use?
Secondo il manuale (pagina 97), le lampade della Peugeot iOn sono le seguenti:
Indicatori di direzione anteriori: W21W da 21 W
Luci di posizione anteriori: W5W da 5W
Fari abbaglianti: HB3 da 60 W
Fari anabbaglianti: H11 da 55 W
Fendinebbia anteriori: H8 da 35 W
Fari diurni anteriori: P13W da 13 W
Indicatori di direzione laterali: WY5W da 5 W
Luci di stop e posizione posteriori: diodi
Indicatori di direzione posteriori: WY21W da 21W
Luci di retromarcia: W21W da 21 W
Fendinebbia posteriore: W21W da 21 W
Terza luce di stop: W5W da 5W
Luci della targa posteriore: W5W da 5 W
Mi concentro qui solo sui fari diurni anteriori e sugli anabbaglianti, perché le altre hanno un uso troppo infrequente da poter incidere in modo significativo.
I fari diurni anteriori consumano in tutto 26 W, per cui sono trascurabili nonostante siano quelli più usati. In un’ora consumano 0,026 kWh. Per consumare un kWh dovrebbero stare accesi per 38.5 ore. Trascurabili.
I fari anabbaglianti si usano solo di notte. Supponendo che 55 W sia il consumo effettivo e non l’energia luminosa emessa, tenere accese due di queste lampade per un’ora consuma 110 Wh, ossia 0,11 kWh. Anche su una batteria piccola da 16 kWh come quella della iOn, si tratta di meno di un centosessantesimo della capacità complessiva, per cui ridurrebbero un’autonomia di 100 km togliendo circa cinquecento metri.
Le luci di posizione e di stop posteriori sono già a LED (pag. 102). Le frecce e la luce di retromarcia no.
Ovviamente questi sono conti spannometrici che non tengono conto di molti fattori, ma è giusto per capire se vale la pena di spegnere le luci in caso di assoluta emergenza in termini di autonomia oppure se investire in un cambio di lampade, installando lampade a LED che consumano meno. La risposta, in sintesi, è no.
Comunque le lampade LED non hanno consumo nullo, per cui bisognerebbe calcolare 55 W - ??W. LED bulbs can provide the same amount of light as traditional incandescent car bulbs with less than 25 percent the energy draw...on an EV that reduction in current draw can offer as much as a six mile boost in range on a single charge...An efficient LED headlamp system can extend vehicle range by nearly six miles (9.5 km). ... The data mentioned above is from a 2008 Society of Automotive Engineering study submitted by the University of Michigan's Transportation Research Institute (UMTRI), which can be found at http://hdl.handle.net/2027.42/61187. More information about OSRAM lighting can be found online at www.sylvania.com/auto. (https://www.engadget.com/2011/01/24/led-headlights-can-add-up-to-six-miles-of-electric-vehicle-range/).
Don't the headlights draw electricity from the auxiliary battery? So it really doesn't affect range? Or do the mains have directly recharge the aux battery when it gets low?
The 12 v. battery is recharged by the large traction battery pack, so all 12 v. loads will very marginally reduce range.
The headlights (and all other 12 volt loads) are directly powered by the DC to DC converter, so every watt of 12 volt load is one more watt drawn directly from the traction battery, and is one less watt you have to move the car
Possible sources of headlights:
https://www.carid.com/2012-mitsubishi-i-miev-led-lights/
https://www.xenonhids.com/mitsubishi/2017/i-miev.html
